Trouble
Code - P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)NEW! You can now ask a question or provide your own P0420 code comments. Just fill out the form at the bottom of the page.
Welcome to P0420.com, the place dedicated to that DTC (diagnostic trouble code) P0420. The P0420 code is a very popular one and that's why there's a site dedicated to that specific trouble code. If your car's check engine light is on, get that code read in case it's a P0420.
A P0420 code is a trouble code on OBD-II equipped vehicles. All vehicles from 1996-newer sold in North America support this generic powertrain code. This code is a pretty common one and this site is here to help the average do-it-yourself (DIY) car owner (like you) troubleshoot, diagnose, and fix their vehicle themselves when presented with a P0420 code, saving money.
If your car has multiple trouble codes (DTC's), it's always a good idea to fix them in the order they come up on the code reader. For example, if you have these codes - P0300, P0420, P0171, then you're going to want to tackle the P0300 Random Misfire code first (resolve it), and then tackle the P0420 code, etc. The reason for that is that the first code could be causing further DTCs to be set.
If you've come to this site you most likely already know that you have a P0420 code. To start, we strongly recommend you seek the services of a professional mechanic/technician if you have any doubts as to whether you can perform the repair! Also, be sure to follow proper diagnostic procedures to determine whether a part has failed. If you simply change parts hoping it will solve the problem, you're really just guessing and wasting money. This site is here for information purposes only and is meant to help you learn more about the dtc and decide if you can tackle the repair yourself. It is not intended as car repair advice.
As mentioned above, the code's description is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). OK, now tell me that again in plain English please.... let's break it down: the catalyst system being referred to is your three-way catalytic converter; so the catalytic converter is not working properly (i.e. it's not efficient). Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine which contains cylinder #1. On inline engines such as 4 & 5 cylinder engines, there is only one bank. So, to really simply things let's just say that the efficiency of the catalytic converter and/or exhaust pipe and/or O2 sensor is not so great.
Great question! A P0420 code will cause no symptoms aside from the MIL (malfunction indicator light) will illuminate. The reality is there is still something wrong and your car needs attention in order to be in excellent running condition. A poorly maintained car will run less efficiently, burn more gas, and cost you more money in the long run. Plus, if your check engine light is on for a P0420 code and you decide not to fix it, another more serious code could be triggered and you'd never know. The MIL lights up whether you have one code or ten! While I have your attention, don't forget to do oil changes as the owner's manual schedules and keep those tires inflated to the proper PSI.
There are a number of things that could be causing this p0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter itself is no longer functioning properly. The other likely thing is the rear O2 (oxygen) sensor is no longer working properly. Other things could include exhaust leaks, damaged exhaust pipes, damaged O2 sensor wiring/connectors, plugged catalytic converter, etc.
The easiest thing to do first is a visual check of things. Visually inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the catalytic converter for dents, holes, severe discoloration, and check for a rattle inside. If any of those syptoms are there, the converter likely needs replacement. Then, visually inspect the downstream O2 sensor (behind the converter). Check for broken wires, obvious faults, etc. If all that checks out, you'll want to check the operation of the O2 sensor. To do that, you'll need access to a scan tool or oscilliscope. Check that the waveform is pretty steady. If the reading fluctuates then the sensor is likely bad and will need to be replaced.
On some vehicles such as some Subaru models an ECM reflash will fix the problem. As you can see a P0420 can be caused by many things, so if you have any doubts as to whether you can fix the problem yourself, please seek the advice of a professional technician. Good luck!
Here are a few links to some other sites with great P0420 articles:
i have replaced the 2 02 sensors but i am still getting the same code, p0420.
i guess the CAT has give up.
DO YOU THINK I AM CORRECT ?
I was told it had leaks in the system so I changed "ALL" gaskets 2-3 times. Then I was told it was the sensors, so with 140K miles, I changed them both... "NO HELP". I went to another exhaust expert, told him what I've done, and he said it was my "Fuel Trim"... which is factory set, so I do not do any thing with that. We cleaned the injectors, new filter, cleaned the MAP sensor and intake system... "NO HELP".
"FINALLY" I went to another exhaust expert expecting to replace the CAT one more time, and he did not want to take my money just then... so he sent me down the road to an Alley mechanic. I explained to him what I have done, and with out hesitation, he solved it... "California Emissions". That is all he said, and it dawned on me that he could be right. "NO" this vehicle does not have any stickers in the engine compartment which tell you that, so there was no way of knowing. $200 for a "California Emissions CAT", we installed it our selves, so that saved me some money, and it is running smooth and fine now.
Deal with that and good luck to "ALL"
Raul
I am in NC and believe the vehicle does not have California Emissions. Is there anyway to diagnose thie/DIY?
read the diagnose things here.
chkd the front & rear sensor visually, found the front sensor wires very tight from a transmission rebuild. routed the wires diffrently. took both connections apart and pluged back in. the only other thing was the battery terminals needed cleaning badly. cleaned very well, replaced the terminals, started the truck & the chk eng light was off. WOW, thnks for the info saved me 89 to 500 dollars. o yeah had to reset the clock. thnks vry much
gas in and within half a tank engine light
went out and hasn't returned try it
it might save you money and headaches
Last month it came on. Last week the dealer reset it for me and after driving 50 miles, the code comes on again.
I dont know what to do now. It cost 1K to get it fix at the dealership. My emission test is next month too.
Whats your advice?
I changed the pcv valve out and it fixed it.
The first symptom i had was a lazy L1 sensor.
Besides that i had 0300 codes which indicated misfiring in all the cylinders (not just a particular one). After changing MAP sensor cleaned the intake sys,changed plugs changed plug wires, changed spark plugs drive unit and cup i noticed that nothing would fix the problem.
Suddenly i thote about checking the emissions.
I noticed that instead of max 100 i had like 350 on idle speed which is way off limits.
Decided to change the rpm sensor and that helped disappearing the above mentioned problems. Then another problem came up with the 0420 code. It was obvious that the car was running for 6 months with wrong injection timing which eventually damaged my CAT. One simple check you people can do to see if the problem is on your cat is the thermometer check. Intake temperature on the CAT should be lower than 100 C than the L2 side temperature everything bellow 100 C means a ready to die CAT. To do that you need a thermometer that measures 400 C.
The symptoms i get now is that 0420 light comes in to view during the morning first start. if i run the car for 5 to 10 km to warm up the cat and reset the code than the problem disappears. Also if i fill up with Super unleaded carb which has additives and does a better burn with less emissions then the problem disappears.
One thing also that people have to have in mind is that L2 sensor corrects what L1 misses, so if the L2 is not working properly this most likely would fire up the Check engine light.
Be careful!! Some times bad carb mixture can cause intermittent 0420 code which is the side effect of the misfiring!!
I did the o2 sensor myself so I'm wondering if its likely that it means I just need to re-wire it or if it's really something else going wrong.
2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4L, only two noticeable symptoms are a slightly hard time changing gears and the engine sometimes overheats when idling and will go back to normal once I start driving again.
light stays on no leaks in cat or exhaust it looks good. Any advise?
Thanks Ed
See if this helps.
Good luck,
Ed
At the same time I had a PO420 code show up and my mechanic was ready to replace the CC. I have cleared the light and will see…
Is it possible the cracked air intake caused the inefficiency of the CC and what are the chances of my having damaged the CC as my mechanic is suggesting?
Thank you very much.
Amy
air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S
Fuel system fault
Faulty catalytic converter
My check engine light came on
Title number 86469416
4T1BG12K1TU929924
TOYT CAMRY 1996
ALI ABDUL
but they just reset then it come back on 2 days later.
Can i remove the catalyst box away and make my car work without it...
Appreciate ur efforts,
Mina.
1. air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S. (heated oxygen sensor) BANK 1.
2. AF sensor error.
3. Fule sensor fault.
4. Faulty Catalytic converter.
I bought this toyota corolla 2003 with 98000 millage today, as it is from dealer. Have the engine lights on and giving the above error codes. Please guild us what we have to repair and it would require how much cost for parts. I
Just see lots of questions here.. but none of the answer.. just curious.
Ok, long story short, I have an Audi a4 Quattro, and after the first time my ignition coil went out, I for some oddly reason had my Catalytic converter changed out, and I noticed the p0420 code as soon aas all that happened,. Well converter changed, and 5 ignition coils later, and the contemplation of buying a new o2 sensor, I realized there was oil in my ignition coil pack every time they burnt out. SO I would reset my coed, and pop in new coils, and 20 minutes later the p0420 would come back. So I finally changed out my valve cover gasket, with a valve cover gasket kit from orieily's (19 bucks) cleaned out the coils, and spark plugs ports. Got some new plugs, and it has been two days, and not a p0420 code. I think that may have actually helped.. So before you waste all that money try the valve cover kit first clean out your ignition coils, or spark plug wires, and clear error code and hopefully that helps.. have a good one guys.
how can i fix this problem?
I've been reading A LOT on this P0420 problem and found out a few good thing you might like to know!!!
I lot of people have the same problem that we do, some changed everything related to emission system. Cats, o2 sensors, MAF, MAP, Temperature Sensor and still had the light coming on!!
On thing that not a lot a people think of checking is the Ethanol rating in the gasoline they use!! Toyota tacoma are set to use Gas with less then 10% ethanol... So what i did is I empty my tank and filled it back with ethanol Free Gasoline, unplug the battery to erase the codes and Guess what, no more light...
The problem with ethanol is that it doesn't burn like regular gas at all and our O2 sensors do not reconised the exhaust gas so your check engine light turn on!!!
I was using Gasoline that had 12% Ethanol and didn't know it!!
Try that and let me know what happens
Thanks
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EURO-5 (AKURA, INFINITI, BMW since 2008)
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My mechanic said sometimes people will get this readout in cold weather, so he put the light out.
It's only been a couple days, so I don't have any long-term results to report.
But I want to thank everyone who has posted some of their good results here. I have learned quite a lot today by reading these comments.
If you have a very small leak and you are running at a constant speed, it will pull air from the hole instread and fresh air will mess up the o2 sensor reading!!
Long story short 2001 jeep wrangler 160000 miles
I talked to a number if dealers/mechanics/autostores
Most said cat is bad some shops wanted to replace 02 sensors (I have 4)
Prices ranging from $800-$1500 plus. Thanks to the Internet one forum guy was like intake leak, check your manifold for cracks and or bad gasket, but I did and I did not appear to have a leak, guy responded do it anyways I'll put money on it ( not really gonna happen right?) anyways $20 in parts ( intake gasket ) and borrowed neighbors torque wrench. It too me a rookie 3 hrs. I reset the code. It's been 2 months and no CEL. And my gas mileage shot up immensely. Holo this helps.
solution to the problem getting together and get into the law makers heads in capital to fine the auto makers. set this sensores to a gasoline that most consumers used the gas has change into more etanol and we are paying for this. my price is over 1000.dollars one person they dont lisend but a massive lawsuit they have to look what happend to TOYOTA. we all got prove of this code has bother a lots of consumers sign into WWW.theomega2012.com/entry/signin please the coment under 420 code
upstream O2 sensor(bank 1) downstream O2sensor(bank 2)
I have found unless you are getting a code like p171 or p300-p308(miss-fire codes) or possibly a mass air flow sensor code your screwed. In other words a rich or lean fuel code.
However, If the cats are not glowing red. The engine is not over-heating. You are getting normal fuel economy. You have what we call a BITCH CODE. In other words a factory money maker, for scared women.
Funny how it is illegal for a junk yard to sell a cat-converter. No not really, It is all about the cash.
Cat's have in them WHITE GOLD(PLATINUM). So I suggest a little piece of black electical tape to go on the instument cluster, unless you live in a fucked up state like California, well then you are screwed.
Best of luck
later
PO134-02 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY TECLA BANK 1
PO420 CATALYST EFFICIENCY THRESHOLD
Saludos
any ideas tried to get service engine light to go out, no joy. Any ideas
Thabks
please pass this on for Toyota owners as TSB's are noted on several other models and years...
Darryl
thank you very much
I've had a terrible misfire for some time now, and could not locate the cause. I had changed all 16 spark plugs, 8 wires, 8 coils and even the EGR valve... to no avail. By the time my OBD spit out the P0420 code, the the O2sensor circuit high-voltage code, I had done irreversible damage to my cat. Though the misfire is now gone, I am still suffering poor mileage until I can replace the converter. In short: take the P0420 code seriously and give due dilligence to figuring why it has been logged. It can save you alot of hassle and even more money.
i bought acode scanner which read P0420
1- chang the fule filter nothing
2- plugs and wires nothing
3- Cat.converter nothing
if any body knows anything please let me know
Havent done anything yet?
Where should I start?
ruehle.brad@gmail.com
Mechanic said O2 sensors scanned Ok. If Bad cat would not cause poor mileage could it still be sluggish front O2 sensor causing poor mileage and setting the po420 code?
Thanks for any help before I change expensive parts that aren't needed.
Look for holes or damage.
If all looks fine, take vehicle for a good run after dark and if cat is getting plugged it will be glowing red enough to easily catch paper on fire. If vehicle is working fine it is more than likely the downstream O2 sensor.
Best thing to do is give vehicle a good tune up and run a tank of high test gas, clear code and see if code stays away.
I recently had my intake manifold gaskets replaced because they had been leaking for sometime, and I would think that dealership would notice if the head gasket was leaking, since it's my understanding that when the head gasket leaks you get coolant into the oil!!! Now, today, P0420 code is on again!!! I'm just wondering if anyone has ever heard of the head gasket leaking coolant into the exhaust system causing the catalytic converter to go bad??? I'm going to the dealership tomorrow to have them check the code and see what happens!!! Any insight into this whole "head gasket leaking" idea the muffler shop had, or are they just trying to get more money out of me?????
Advice: with high mileage vehicle owners. suggest doing a tune-up and exhaust leaks first. much cheaper to start there plus the tune-up will make your car much more efficient. watch where you buy gas too. run better octane fuel.(gas prices suck i know) Newer vehicles generally require it. especially turbo charged or supercharged engines. 91octane or better. should say on your gastank lid.
I stuck an old rag in the end of my tailpipe while it was idling. heard my exhaust leak clear as day then. (tip from a muffler shop) Do not cover you cel or mil light with tape. although this code usually doesnt cause your engine to run differently it still needs corrected. if something else goes wrong with your vehicle you wont know it because your light is already on. could end up costing alot more in unforeseen damages. Id start with the leak checks and a tuneup on high mileage vehicles. recommended at 100,000 miles anyways.
What is the problem.
1996 camry 4t1bg12k1tu929924 now car pass all other yes
OBD INSPECTION PASS
the code no is p0420. Can you show the parts with the price
CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS CAT
Get it and get back on the road!
Then took it to MIDAS i usually go to, and they said the best thing is to replace o2 sensor on top of the manifold as the voltage was not normal. I reluctantly agreed, but light came up again.
Stuck now. Please help. I want to determine the root cause myself. What all can I do?
Good luck!
I found answer here. Scotty, the Mechanic describes how to resolve this issue in his YouTube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icTmYItwiE
I read a few and I strongly believe that the gas has something to do with this. Reason being, my brothers 03 camry's light is on and a mechanic scan is and it has cat problems. I also scanned my girlfriends car and its threw a code different from p0420 but the code is for cat performing insufficienly. So I wonder why? only thing these 3 vehicles have in common is gas. Ima check for leaks and Ima swith to shell gas 93 and see what happens.
The car seems to have slight miss when running. I do not want to to trial and error as this could be cost prohibited and as we all know times are not that prosperous. I have a 1996 ford exployer sport v6 4.0 4 wheel drive with a 5 speed. Also what is the differance between a scan and diagnostics. Can any one please help me! bob
Besides I got a P0420 code, but it is coming for a while and then it goes by itself. What does it mean?
Thanks!
Depending on the type of coolant your car uses, leaking coolant into the exhaust will kill a converter and the O2 sensors. The Glycol based coolant (the green stuff) has a high silicon base and will coat the O2 sensors and wont burn off, and make them read incorrectly as well as coat the inside of the converter. I don't recall if the red coolant has the same problem or not but ANY coolant leak should be addressed as it WILL lead to expensive repairs if ignored.
As for high ethanol concentrations in fuel causing PO420 I can only surmise that it's possible due to the different oxygen content from the burned alcohol in the exhaust than non-ethanol fuels but I suspect a trained tech can spot the issue if he looks at the data with a scan tool- the fuel trim (block learn/ integrator) values will be out of norm (but marginally within acceptable specs), as they will set from the front O2 sensor readings that will ALSO be reading the results of burned alcohol in the exhaust. As for fuel trim being set from the rear O2 sensor- I dunno, but if it is it should throw the front sensor into spasms that should set an O2 sensor code.
Everyone should keep in mind- an OBD2 code is a generic trouble code output by a special computer designed to interpret the powertrain modules codes so they can be read by emission testing facilities, it is NOT a code to indicate what part to buy, or to diagnose what to fix. It is a code to indicate to a trained tech WHERE to look for a problem. The real diagnostic codes are in the PCM that cannot be read by a generic code scanner.
Yup, I was a drivability/emission tech for 20+ years, so I have a pretty good idea what I'm talking about.
I purchased a direct fit converter and had it installed and my car no longer has a po420 code and passed the P.A. emmessions inspection. I recomend that any one contact them via phone and they will help you. Robert
I have to get new catalytic converters, but just cant find any! Do you know where i can buy it online?
My 2002 Subaru Outback wagon had the converter rust off at the flange. We replaced the converter (by Monroe Muffler)and two or three days later the CEL went on. Took it back and they reset the CEL. Worked find for a few months then came back on just before we needed the car inspected (new york).
My mechanic informed me that the car has two sensors (Monroe stated both were O2 sensors). Wrong! The front sensor is the AFR or air fuel ratio sensor and the rear one is the CMS or converter monitor sensor.
Apparently the replacement converter installed by Monroe Muffler is not up to the California "standards" that is programmed into the computer on the vehicle. This means that the converter needs to meet California "standards" here in New York. No way around it.
Dealer first said o2 sensor would fix it then he said he replace it and the light went on again. Then he said $2200 for OEM catalyst converter. I said I was replaced about 2 ½ years and I left.
This place gave me a 2 year warranty However, about 8 months ago I was having problems with the CEL and the cut off and re-welded the Aftermarket catalyst converter and said it was not it. However the light went out and I forgot about it until now.
So what I have done lately is and still I have a code of P0420 and CEL on all the time:
1 Dealer said they the bank o2 sensor
2)Put guarantee to pass emission test
cleaner in gas I bought form Auto Zone and drove 200 miles at high speeds…did not work. However do not smell a fume smell any more.
3 Put in gallon of pure lacquer thinner in gas as recommended by Emmy award winning mechanic on the video and has or did have a Television show on auto repairs.
My question is if I just have discount muffer shop put weld on any that fit (the said they could use any) universal catalyst converter on my 1997 Lexus with 125000 miles would that work for sure.
Because I:
A) Am only getting codePO42O,
B) I had car check for leaks and none
C) every place I bring it to says need catalytic converter but some say OEM and others do not say welding However winning mechanic says welding on video
Or if I can get a rebuilt OEM with only a 2 year warrant for a few hundred dollars more would that be recommend over welding a universal
I need to pass the emission test right away because ,I cannot play around because I ma still sick and have to do something quick to see doctors etc.
Please let me know ASAP.
Gratefully,
Bob
Since too many bad, greedy, or simply incompetent mechanics & garages also know
that they'll make even more money changing out your perfectly good parts (especially those expensive sensors and CAT's !!), they often seem to miss out on that point entirely.
In any case, it seems that since P0420's can often result from incomplete combustion
issues, whether from bad (or ethanol spiked!) gas, spark misfires, leaks & the
like, you'd think that the easiest and cheapest way to go would be to:
#1)inspect for any intake/exhaust leaks
#2)inspect the sensors & connections
#3)try running a tank of good gas with higher octane and no ethanol additives
#4)clean up your battery terminals (and as a bonus, removing the power momentarily
may also clear the code)
Next, try a tuneup (sparks, wires, filters, & check coils) to see what happens. This way you won't be paying through the nose to change out an expensive CAT or sensors for nothing, and even if you eventually have to, you're only doing some simple and
inexpensive stuff that you'd normally be doing anyways.
I also agree that an OEM CAT should last the life of the car, and would not likely
need to be replaced unless contaminated with oil or coolant (glycol,silicates) as a result of some other more serious engine failure. You might also try using some CAT cleaner (CATACLEAN By Prestolite) before deciding to replace it.
LOL to the "Bitch Code" diagnosis. The 0420 code sure puts a lot of money into dealers and garage owners pockets for useless and expensive CAT and parts changeouts. So beware.
As an aside, I've also heard that using too much gas line antifreeze (methanol) can
sometimes provoke the code. Thanks to all who posted their P0420 fault code experiences and fixes. Now I'm off to go try out my own advice, and I'll be back to let you know how it works out.
Hope that this post has helped someone. Good luck to all!
1 - fix engine mechanical systems
2 - fix routine systems issues IE. charging system, tune, exhaust, vacuum, EGR, coolant overheat, fuel pump, catalyst etc
3 - fix computer control issues o2 sensors are preventive after 8 years or 80 thousand miles - why ruin cats?
Always check for TSB's (technical service bulletins) dealer or manufacturer recalls and computer flash updates as part of the repair process.
Do you think it is possible that most mechanics are great at what they do and not great communicators? Is it possible that if you had to spend 40-60 k on tools to get a 15 to 20 dollar an hour job that a little respect instead of distrust might go a long way? Give a tech a break. Mechanics fix cars to make a living and help people. PO 420 is one of thousands of possible codes. it is not specific on purpose. Let professionals help you save money, pay them for their time and say Thanks!
So I have a 2005 Scion xB.
I'm guessing either the cat is plugged or something is plugged up with gunk. This would then read in the system as "high fuel pressure" under the generic trouble code P0240???
How do I fix gunk in the upstream fuel system?
Been going back and forth in the last 2-3 wks. Cat & both sensors are brand new.
Took car have dealer check, it's the cat convter. Cost $900+ labor. Damm!!! Don't have that kind of money laying around. But my problem is the car gives out poor mpg 19-20, sometime 21 if I'm lucky. This is base on 80%-90% hwy driving and more. Check and read, car suppose to be 25 hwy and 20 city. I seen other get 30 mpg+ on their crv on hwy. how or why is my giving out low mpg. Did some research and found that it could also be a o2 sensor because bad one can decrease mpg by 20% -40%. I mean WoW that's huge. But not sure if this is the answer cause I don't want to spend a ton of money and turn out it's still gives me low mpg. Anyone ever have some issue like this or similar. FYI, did tune up already. Plugs, wire cap and rotor, change oil, and flush tranny. Thanks for any help.
I have a 2003 Toyota sienna. It's showing the code P0420.
Recently i got its transmission changed. And got new tyrods and bolt assembly. And within 20 days it's showing the check engine sign. It's for CAT efficiency below threshhold.
I don't understand what's the problem. Every month it shows some problem. The miles on the car is 119000 miles so far.
Could anyone tell me where is the cataLic converter in the car and can we fix ourself. I have spent more than 4000 dollars last year for is car and I don't want to apennines any money .
I put in one gallon of Lacquer thinner from home depot $19.00 and one bottle of Chevron Pro Guard from Costco $16.99 per case (6 pack) I reset the code went to Sacramento via I5 at 70-80 miles and hour (One HOUR DRIVE) and then came back after doing my business up there. It now has been two weeks, no light / P0420 code, and normally I would get the light on right after getting on any freeway or driving hard. The Lacquer Thinner was the trick. I have 1600000 miles on the engine. I was very skeptical, and pray about the Lacquer Thinner, because this sounded so stupid, and I thought I could ruin my engine even my friends were waiting for my engine to blow up. I have a very strong running truck, I will give it gas and end up spinning my tires by accident. This really works.
I would check the obvious,
Leaks, vacuum hoses, battery connections, spark plugs, plug wires, but the good one Bosh. Then after all that put in one gallon of Lacquer Thinner, and one bottle of Chevron Pro Guard, cleans the fuel injectors.
The OXYGEN sensor cost me $70.00 at Grand Auto, it did not help. Try the cheap stuff first, then go into the more expensive stuff.
Thanks
1. Check under the hood and car for any air leaks, such as intake manifold, vacuum hoses, exhaust manifold, exhaust leaks
2. fill up with premium gas from chevron, shell or BP (i like the techron@chevron)
3. drive the engine hard and under load - like up a hill for an extended duration- sometimes the cat can get gunked up with stuff it it hasn't been driven to full warm up consistently
4. if you have an after market cat back exhaust look into making an O2 sensor spacer out of some washers. You can find directions by gooleing. the theory goes the higher flow rate causes the efficiency test to fail. Moving the sensor back a bit will solve the problem.
5. This code can also come on from burning oil if you have leaky valves or a worn motor. If that is the case, replacing the cat will only end up with another failure down the road as the burning oil is what is ruining the cat.
I reconnected everything and took it for a test drive... the check engine light went off after about half a mile.
Buuutttt... the car quit on me at the next red light, and then would not start back up at the autozone (where I returned the crankshaft sensor they sold me earlier today to theoretically fix the 420 code).
Looking into a new fuel filter next... then maybe an IAC cleanup if that doesn't do the trick.
These cars are well engineered. This one has 182K miles on it and still drives and runs great. Usually catalytic converters don't just "go bad." The computer was making up for the vacuum leak by spraying more fuel to the cylinders to prevent a lean-out condition.
Hope this helps.
cat effeciency low bank 1 so my question is what one is it before or after the cat on bank 1 thanks
Now... p0420 code again. I was told that the factory cats are far superior than aftermarket and I may need to go the factory route. Quite pricey however for a can with 210,000 on the clock. Any thoughts??
This motor has 98,000 on it and is sporting a generic catalytic converter. That told me that the original one was replaced most likely because the P0420 code was previously diagnosed incorrectly as a bad catalytic coverter. No other codes were being stored in the computer's memory.
My solution was to do a tune-up and look for exhaust leaks before the converter and intake leaks before the motor. I found no leaks. This particular motor does not have the ability to adjust the timing so that was not considered. I determined that the next thing would be to ensure the up-stream oxygen sensor was working properly.
I did not have an oscyliscope to compare the up-stream sensor to the down-stream sensor nor an advanced OBDII scanner to pull fuel trim and real time information on the sensors. What I did do was buy a $19 up-stream oxygen sensor off eBay and put it in.
Replacing the up-stream oxygen sensor has solved my particular P0420 check engine code. I wanted to let people know this to encourage them that it is not always the catalytic converter that is the problem. It may only be the symptom of a poorly running motor.
To fix your particular P0420 issue I encourage you to make sure the engine is performing perfectly, sensors and all before spending the money to replace the catalytic converter. Converters are killed by poor running engines. Cheers and good luck.
I got the P420 code and then transmission related codes.. I have changed CC, O2sensors, EGR valve and changed the Tranny with Re-manufactured one.
After 2K miles, P420 showed up again. Now it is frustrating to even think of dumping another $K (mostly on labor) to fix this old crap.
I'm sorry not that easy. As stated earlier the dtc simply is tell you that the control module (cm, ie computer) thinks the pre cat o2 sensor and the post cat o2 sensor readings are near the same, to the cm it means the vehicle is not running efficiently (creating excess pollution) . Which can be caused by a number of issues. All sensors whether pressure, position, or temperature adjust voltage of the circuit which is then interpreted by the CM.
There is no clear answer to what needs to to repaired without further diagnostics. Every part related needs to be checked. The repair could be costly (cat replacement) or very cheap (cleaning a connectors contacts). The Cat might be in need of replacement, one of the O2 sensors may need to be replaced, the CM could be faulty, a wire in the circuit maybe chaffed and touching a power source or a ground source, or one of the connectors maybe corroded.
In the short, there is two ways to repair the vehicle, one can be very costly (the wrong way, although you might get lucky) the other can be very time consuming.
1. Pick a part, purchase it, replace it, and test drive the vehicle. If the light goes away, woo hoo it's fixed. If the light is still on pick another part and repeat and keep repeating till the light goes out. This method could result in replacing all electrical and mechanical parts.
2. Properly diagnosis the all items related to the system. Which may include the use of scan tools, digital multi-meter, access to the proper repair information, and other tools and test equipment. Take the time and do it right. If you do not have the skills and knowledge for this method, find a good repair shop.
A little secret to finding a good repair shop is to look around the shop and ask questions. A shop where you have to set an appointment is likely to be a good place, it is likely to be busy because they do good work. Ask them what type of diagnostic equipment do they use, where do the obtain their service information, how long have they been in business, will they offer a warranty, etc. The less they advertise and the larger long term return customer base the better the shop.
The best answer I have to all these questions is properly diagnosis the system and repair the minimal amount of items to achieve success.
This past weekend I thought I would do a nice thing and clean and Detail my wifes car. I cleaned the engine as I have done numerous times before with Simple Green, taking care not to get the electrics wet.
Well the next day it started bucking, hesitating and tripped the MIL. Scanned it, found a random misfire. Pulled the coils, found moisture on 4 of them. Blew them off, sprayed with WD40, and blew off again. Blew out the wells where the plugs are, found a lot of water in # 2. put back together, still had a slight skip, cleared codes, reset the MIL.
Wife drove it the next day, a lot of hesitation and the mil came back on. Scanned and found # 5 cyl misfire. Pulled all coils, #5 had a little moisture on it, the rest dry. Replaced all plugs, blew out all wells again, reinstalled, reset MIL, took for a long ride, ran great!! nice and smooth.
Wife drove it again, MIL came back on, rescanned, got a code 0420- Catalyst System Low Efficiency. I only drove the car about 50 miles with the misfire.
Are the cat's that delicate that it could be ruined, or maybe a o2 sensor?
Does anyone have any Ideas?
Thank You.
I appreciate any help anyone can give me.
PO420 code with strong fuel odor in cabin.
2003 Toyota Highlander.
Trying to keep up with 4 cars is not fun! lol Hope this doesn't get too expensive, funds are depleted.
Thanks ahead!
Rick
Lanreko
The MIL light came on one morning, right after it was driven for a while, stopped and restarted at a restaurant. I was traveling, the car was running fine, no work had been done to the car, the milage was low, thought it was likely the loose gas cap problem. The MIL went off in a few days/several driving cycles. Two days later it was back on. Autozone got PO420 code. (Never got a chance to check the first code).
I new the air filter was "dirty" but it did not really look all that bad but I was planning to change it at the next oil change anyway so I put in a new A/C, then filled the 1/2 tank with BP premium (Invigorate stuff). The light stayed on a couple of more days, on the next long leg of the trip I put in another 1/2 tank of BP premium. Near the end of the day, on another food stop, the MIL light was off when I restarted the engine. It has been off over a week.
I am not promoting BP, just relating what I did. Truthfully, I think it was the A/C, it may have been the OEM filter (I bought the car used a few months ago)
Hope this helps someone. I learned a lot reading through this forum.
Good Luck
new catalyst have been in place then after 600. mils light Cod PO420:and P0430 com on Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1 & 2)
Do you have comet advice what to do
I have Chevrolet Aveo 2007. From few days I saw this Yellow light.I did Computer scaning inspection they said thatPO420 - Catalyst System Low Efficiency. I'm still driving the car there will be any problem, Please advice me what to do
asb145@hotmail.com
Fuel injector can be cleaned with fuel injector cleaner, duh. Go to any auto parts store (even walmart), and buy a bottle of "Lucas tune up in a bottle".
Recently the engine check light have been on.The diag engine program show the P0420 error. I have done the below actions:
1- changed the front and behind catalyst O2 sensors.
2- Cleaned(washed) the fuel injectors.
3- Control and check the exhaust connections for leaking
4- And finally replaced the catalyst
But unfortunately the engine check light in on and the P0420 is appear yet.
What can I do for solution this error?
Thank you for your attention.